A slight retro-future-spacial expansion, Brooklyn Fare Kitchen, home of Chef Cesar Ramirez, has a knock-down, drag-out gorgeous space which includes the Molteni stove, specially designed for the restaurant. The space is more like a theater than a kitchen, and shines like a hit Broadway show. He offers what is the most outrageously wonderful, unfathomably underpriced, and virtually unattainable meal in New York.

Ramirez has that stainless steel table—oddly, the shiny look of Brooklyn Kitchen with its gleaming copper pots overhead makes it feel less rustic. You get one bonus at Brooklyn Kitchen, the chef is there, cooking front and center, at the same oversized table where you sit. Ramirez makes every dish, with the help of an assistant. Ramirez is almost classic, elegant, genuinely French, although no dish is without unexpected twists. Sauces appear everywhere, but in minute quantities. While his combinations are less exotic, their nuances will leave you equally breathless.