Another about turn from Tomas Maier, Creative Director of Bottega Veneta, as we saw in the runway show for the brand’s Spring 2014 RTW collection. The pretty flowered prints of 2013 have vanished into thin air and in their place is a collection of voluminous silhouettes, a collection of urban severity as the designer continues his creative journey into the exploration of the possibilities of material and volume.
The designer asserts that a visit to the Met’s Impressionism, Fashion and Modernity show triggered his creative juices but we can spot a definite Japanese feel through the crisp white crossover shirts with wide cuffed sleeves, worn with a wide ‘obi’ type belt over a draped, gathered and bunched, skirt. There is certainly no skimping with fabric within this collection, practically every item exhibits a relaxed exuberance trimmed with a mass of rosettes, pleats and even bustles. Frills and ruffles, gathered and plisse criss cross the garments to create an asymmetric balance to the draped skirts. Cocktail and day dress with single shoulder straps, some in leather, tailored jackets, shorts and skirts of all lengths were shown throughout the show.
Fabrics of stiff reinforced cotton and mohair trims with a colour palette of muted tones of grey, rust, aubergine, green and apricot along with black and white dominated, not what one would expect to wear on a bright spring morning. The relaxed feel of the clothes were worn by the deadpan models with light makeup and unstyled hair, carrying a diverse variety of bags for which the brand is famed, many exhibiting the hand crafted weaving technique, BV’s signature detail. The shoes created an element of interest, pointy toed slingbacks with heels from the accustomed towering stiletto to the sweet kitten heels which were worn with the longer length skirts, a welcome element of comfort for many of the devoted fans of the brand who will flock to purchase the clothes of BV for their forthcoming spring wardrobe!
