Fall is Nicole and Michael Colovos' second season putting their Helmut Lang collection on the runway, and their confidence is growing. If their Spring outing erred a bit on the repetitive side, this was more freewheeling, yet still within the recognizable framework they've set up during their five-plus years at the brand. Recognizability counts for a lot, going by all the big-name retailers in the front row tonight. From the first look out—a white leather lapel-less blazer, glossy black skinny jeans, and black thigh-high wedge boots—you knew where you were. After that, the Colovoses touched upon their other staples: the wrap leather and fur jacket with the funnel neck; the draped jersey dress; the asymmetric sweaters and cobwebby knits.
The freewheeling part came via the details. A stretchy dress was inset with the same armadillo-stamped leather that was used for the sleeves of a blazer. The fur on a belted jacket was dyed a rich shade of ruby red, a color as yet unseen in a collection from the Colovoses, who typically favor neutrals. And a red ponyhair jacket was laser cut in a delicate repeating motif. The prints were borrowed from nature—leafless branches of trees and hardened swirls of lava—but their shapes were resolutely urban. The only misfire was the low-slung, inverted pleat, full-legged trouser. It'd be a shame to cover up those killer over-the-knee boots.
