Unlike other designers who treat sheerness with some sort of vulgarity that make one feel exposed, Reed Krakoff references it in a way that is fluid and exudes lightness. Airy and voluminous most of his looks were knee length. Prior to the show, Krakoff explained that his bearable lightness of being in see-through fabrics was inspired by “a more overt idea of femininity; the idea of luxury sportswear is still relevant, but I wanted it to come from a different place, transparency and layering and asymmetry.” We saw asymmetrical dresses with ruched details, following the slip-dress madness that was all over NYFW collections. Moreover there were sporty influences as well like tracksuits in fluid twill, mesh sweatshirts and a very sexy strapless satin dress that reminded us of wrapped towel. Where Krakoff was most innovative was his suiting. A leather shell that wrapped in the back was made from a single piece of fabric, with no side seams, and the vest underneath a white linen coat was constructed from the hem of its lapel. It was a deceptively simple trompe l'oeil trick that was actually incredibly difficult to pull off. There is a cool precision to Krakoff's tailoring. It might take some time until his dressmaker skills are as confident as that coat, but give him a hand for trying.
Reed Krakoff S/S 2014
Posted by
Magda Tsolaki